Interested in starting a retinol but unsure where to start?
Retinoids can feel intimidating, but with the right approach, they can be safe and effective.
Retinoids 101
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that help improve skin texture, acne, fine lines, and sun damage.
They come in different strengths:
Retinyl esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate): the gentlest, about 5× weaker than retinol.
Retinol: the most common starter option.
Retinaldehyde (retinal): one of the strongest OTC forms, about 10× stronger than retinol.
Adapalene: available OTC or Rx, effective for acne with lower irritation.
Prescription retinoids (e.g., tretinoin, tazarotene): the most potent and fastest-acting.
How to start retinoids safely:
Use only at night.
Cleanse gently—no scrubs, astringents, or harsh actives (like glycolic, lactic, benzoyl peroxide, or salicylic acid) at the same time.
Wait until skin is dry (about 20 minutes after washing).
Sensitive skin? Use the “Sandwich Method”: moisturizer → retinoid (pea-sized for entire face) → 20 minutes later, moisturizer.
Dot application: Place small dots on forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin, then spread evenly.
Avoid sensitive areas: corners of eyes, mouth, and nose folds (apply Vaseline/Aquaphor there prior to the retinoid if needed).
Start slow: apply every 2–3 nights. After 2 weeks, if no irritation, increase to every 1–2 nights. Goal: daily use.
Morning routine: rinse with water, moisturize, and always apply sunscreen.
When introducing a retinoid to your skincare regimen, the key is to start slowly with a low-strength product. A little retinol goes a long way—using too much can cause irritation. A pea-sized amount is enough for your entire face. For even coverage, place small dots across your skin (three on the forehead, three on the cheeks, and three along the jawline), then gently spread the product evenly.
What can I expect?
Mild redness, dryness, or flaking are common at first.
Results may take 8–12 weeks—consistency is key.
Don’t stop and restart frequently—it’s better to adjust frequency than to quit and restart.
What can I do to improve my chances of success?
Stay hydrated.
Use the sandwich method for irritation.
Begin with a lower-strength OTC retinol.
Be patient—results take time
Who shouldn’t use retinoids?
If you don’t plan to use sunscreen.
During pregnancy or breastfeeding.
In teens, unless prescribed by a dermatologist.
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